The Cliffs of Moher are a rockstar. They're Ireland's headliner, the main act, the picture on all the postcards. And like any big-name celebrity, they draw a crowd. A massive, selfie-stick-wielding crowd that pours out of tour buses into a visitor centre, snaps a photo, and leaves. But what if I told you that's like listening to your favourite album through a tin can? What if I told you the real…